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AsmaraAsmara In The Eye Of Tourism: Few Glimpses

By Frezghi Dawit

Even with traditional knowledge of geography, one does not hesitate to establish dwelling villages in the landscape what is now Eritrea’s capital city. I think that is why the first inhabitants lured by its location and cool climate chose to settle. Beyond its suitability for farming and grazing fields, it is malaria free. There are enough details to infer people who led sedentary life in scattered farmsteads were the earliest inhabitants of what is today we call Asmara. Historical/archaeological sites of Asmara’s neighborhoods, such as Maichehot, Maitemenai, and Sembel, along with their various cultural remains are living traces of the past. They are virtual windows of viewing the history of Asmara before it was christened, and became the seat of regional chiefs.

Geographically, Asmara is situated on the plateau of the northern end of the East African Highland. Although Eritrea is within the tropics, where the sun is always around overhead all year round and has intense warmth, the high altitude of Asmara modifies the weather (same to the central highland of the country). Asmara is somewhat a tower (or a water tower) for the surrounding areas where one could easily feel it when he/she climbs or descends the escarpment from/to Mitswa’e or Mendefera. As a result, Asmara is not as hot and humid as the tropics and as cold and fogy as the temperate regions. To find such weather in the middle of baking sun and sticky humidity of tropical Africa is a wonder by itself.

Asmara was well established and flourishing center of administration and local market quite for a long time before the Italians made it the capital of their first colony in Africa. During those times Asmara had cluster of villages of traditional Hedmo(s) and huts. The Italians moved their center of colonial rule from Mitswa’e to Asmara in the early 1900s. Since then intense construction works had been conducted in Asmara that are today’s monumental Art Deco. Today Hedmos have become rare in Asmara proper, except in some recreational places like the Expo compound as if the Hedoms were granted refuge from discrimination. As a result, Asmara was completely transformed and became a city of stone and cement and concrete walls.

Asmara today is in the center of the world in terms of cleanness, tranquillity and architectural style, what it makes it unique and so lovely are the public buildings, villas, and mansions of Art Deco (or Decorative Art). They were built from different architectural styles of Art Deco. The architectural design of the buildings is very unique and especially the facades are catchy to watch. They are majestic and some of them look like sailing ships and monuments dear to remember.

Others look like exotic falls from alien worlds (or otherworldly thing), and still others look like so wonderful paints of a genus artist. Anyone could observe by strolling to the Coptic Orthodox Church the Cathedral, the Mosque, the cinemas and what have you in the heart of the city which are a wonderful pieces of architecture. The majestic scenery of the buildings of Asmara highlighted by umbrella like palm trees are by themselves inviting to appreciate and give pleasure to see and admire.

Asmara is an ideal place to appreciate and to quench the nostalgia for the early 20th century Art Deco. That is why foreign visitors are heard saying people of Asmara are living in a museum. Thus, Asmara is an open air museum. Asmara and its Art Deco were built in the first four decades of the 20th century by mass labour force of its native people, and with few Italian lire and engineers. Most Art Deco buildings in the world are found in few cities. In Asmara, they are intact, preserved and old (as saying has it, ‘Old is Gold’), whereas those in Europe and other places were destroyed either by the two Great Wars or by the successive modernization waves or both.

Modern Eritrea is an ancient land. Everywhere in the country, one may find cultural traces that were part and parcel of the daily life of that past. National Museum (of Eritrea in Asmara) houses several cultural materials such as Paleo-and Neolithic stone tools and animal fossils including a hominid skull. The discovery of hominid remains extends the history of habitation of this part of Africa to one million years back.

The Museum’s display reflects history and culture of Eritrea from prehistory to contemporary time. The Museum is an opportune place to collect information, to study the historical argument whether the origin and center of ancient civilization of this part of Africa was here or across the Red Sea. Based on different data this part of Africa was the cradle and center of that civilization and an important intellectual and material source of the ancient civilization of Egypt as well. In addition, the whereabouts of the ‘Land of Punt’ according to existing knowledge, Eritrea is by far the ideal candidate.

Visitors interested to view the topography of Asmara have the opportunity only by climbing the many hills within the city. From there one could enjoy a birdseye- view of the cityscape and its environs. By driving few minutes to the outskirts of the city (like Betgeorgish, Maichehot), one could also enjoy the heartbreaking landscape in the continent and green coated canyons. Moreover, Asmara is full of out-door cafes especially along the Godana Harent (or Liberation Avenue). Besides easy and relaxing feeling one could get from the shade of verandas, the palm trees, and the services, it is also a good spot of enjoying to see and to be seen. Nightclubs and bars of Asmara in general have a reputation of having no disturbances. They are wallet friendly for all types of customers.

During summer season when the sun is overhead and intense the clouds frequently cover the sky overhead and look as if playing hide and search. The sun heat cools not only by the high altitude of Asmara, but by the summer clouds, too. While raining, one can have a chance to walk a good distance in between the rains to reach ones destination. The rain here mostly has intermittent break until it stops raining. In summer and spring, Asmara becomes so splendor. The rain recharges the earth with energy and the trees hug the city tight and fill with aroma of followers. Its surroundings convert to green carpet spotted with lovely myriad of flowers.

Summer is a good time to watch migratory birds in Asmara. They visit and stay in the city until their chickens learn to fly by their own. They build their nests, lay eggs, hatch, feed, and croon and groom their chickens. They keep themselves busy on the trees and ponds of Asmara. They criss-cross the sky of Asmara in single fine or ‘V’ shape like well-drilled uniform men early in the morning and late afternoon. It is simply interesting to accommodate and watch them. It is in this season most Diaspora Eritreans come home like seasonal migratory birds to visit relatives and friends and to enjoy the pride of homeland. They multiply the languages and accents spoken in the streets.

Asmara is tolerant and that is the trade mark of the people’s culture. Since centuries the people of Asmara, and for that matter the people of Eritrea, have been living in harmony and peace among followers of different religions. On one side of a street, one can see followers of one religion and their place of worship and next to it or on the opposite street of the other. They live together and respect each others religion and belief. It is a simple reality in Asmara to have neighbours with different religions living side by side, have a dish together, and intermarry.

Asmara is an idyllic city to relax and entertain. It has bright and sunny days and planned and clean streets. Asmara is free from sound pollution of any kind. On the other hand, Asmara is a friendly and hospitable city. There is no thug (thuggery) and brawl, and is hassle free. Anyone can stroll the city at any time including in late night without bothering of security threats. All over Asmara, one is confident to meet and get and accompany of welcoming and helping gestures of its polite inhabitants. Asmara invites to have a walk around the city neighbourhoods. Asmara in fact a worldly city, but its behaviour resembles a monastery. Therefore, one could simply think Asmara is a good place to visit and enjoy.



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